The men’s shirt: the guide to the perfect shirt

Style

Which collar shape is the right one for which occasion?

With the classic Kent collar you are well dressed for every occasion. The shark collar, on the other hand, looks more modern and formal thanks to its wider spread. This makes it much more suitable for important business meetings. The tab collar is ideal for particularly festive occasions: This nestles elegantly around the tie with the help of a hidden bar and thus provides the perfect James Bond look. Here you can find out everything about the different collar shapes.

Why do some shirts wrinkle more than others?

The reason is the fabric. Materials that wrinkle extremely quickly are cotton and linen. Look out for shirts that are marked “non-iron”. These are made of coated cotton, so the freshly washed fabric comes into shape faster. However, non-iron is a slight exaggeration: It does not work completely without iron, but it’s guaranteed to be faster and easier smooth.

How to avoid embarrassing sweat stains under the arm?

Stay away from synthetic fiber shirts! When buying, look for breathable materials, such as cotton, and a cut that is as casual as possible. It is also advisable to choose dark colors, on which sweat stains are less visible. It is also advisable to wear undershirts (also cotton, of course). The fabric absorbs the sweat and distributes it so that it evaporates more quickly. Here we show you how to get rid of your old shirts and finally bring order into your clothes chaos.

What plaid and denim shirts actually go best with?

Whether plaid or plain, a loose-fitting shirt over a white oversized shirt looks especially casual. On the bottom, you can complement the sporty look with rolled-up black pants. The combination of different denim products can also be quite impressive – this is then called Double Denim. By the way, blue or black denim harmonizes color-wise splendidly with beige tones.

When to wear flannel shirts?

Just the right thing for the transitional period or cool summer evenings is a warm check shirt in a casual lumberjack look. This looks especially cool in combination with jeans in used look. You can round off this leisure look in style with the right accessories. For example, with a currently totally trendy backpack, casual sneakers and a cool key chain that disappears in the pants pocket.

Most jackets hang quickly over the backrest after work starts and the shirts get the starring role. On the male chest area with the triangle shirt-tie-reverse of the jacket rests the gaze of the counterpart for a particularly long time. A selection of high-quality shirts is therefore an absolute must in every man’s wardrobe.

The 7 characteristics for buying a shirt:

  1. Yoke: Usually the insert at the shoulders consists of 2 layers of fabric or is provided with a thin insert. With a horizontal seam in the back, it is easier to adjust to each stature.
  2. Button placket: For business shirts there are 2 variants to choose from. The smooth, French button placket looks very elegant. With the attached placket, an additional fabric panel is sewn onto the front (provides extra hold). Concealed button plackets are used for the cut and the tuxedo.
  3. Seams: The more stitches a seam has, the more durable it is as well. In high-quality models, there are approximately 8 stitches per centimeter.
  4. Button cuff: For the office the best is the double button cuff. One additional button on each arm slit prevents the fabric from opening up unsightly there.
  5. Length: The shirt should be long enough that it doesn’t slip out of your pants, either when you’re sitting down or when you raise your arms. A round hem with a small lap is the best choice in this regard.
  6. Turn-up cuff: The most formal of all cuff styles, the two layers of fabric are held together by a cuff link. If the choice falls on particularly noble cufflinks, there’s plus points in the style grade.
  7. Collar: If there is about a finger’s width of space between the fabric and the neck, the collar will fit perfectly. The tie knot should be at the top between the collar legs, but never lift the collar tips. By the way: Here you can find more fashion basics that every man needs.

The ultimate shirt check

Does your shirt flutter on you like a flag in the wind? Do you have to stuff your shirttails back into your waistband after every movement? Then it’s time for our little shirt tutorial. When buying, simply pay attention to the following:

  • Determine your collar size with a tape measure (centimeters = shirt size). Put it around the lower part of your neck at the level of the collar button. The tape should fit loosely around your neck.
  • The most comfortable collar size provides two finger widths of clearance between your neck and the collar. Don’t buy a shirt that fits tighter around the neck, or you’ll end up with a stranglehold after the first wash.
  • A classic collar with straight, pointed collar ends balances out a wide face shape. If you have a narrow face, go for a shirt with a cut-away collar. This is characterized by widely spaced collar points.
  • Be sure to check in the dressing room that the shirt is the right length. You must be able to move your arms freely without the shirt slipping out of your pants.
  • The right sleeve length: you must be able to bend your arms without the cuffs riding up. Everything is perfect when the cuffs peek out an inch below the suit sleeves.
  • Firstly, the cuffs should be wide enough to allow your wristwatch to fit underneath and not be too tight. And secondly, they should be tight enough not to slip over your hands.
  • Finally, the right torso fit is also important. The shirt must be cut so that you can sit down comfortably without the fabric stretching across your chest or at your waist. 

Shirt care: washing, ironing, storage

As a constant companion, your shirt deserves at least as much loving care as your car – here’s a compact course:  

  • Washing
  • Spin
  • Drying
  • Ironing
  • Storage

Washing you can wash your shirts in the machine at 40 or 60 degrees, depending on the degree of soiling. Grease, collar fat and other stains are best treated with additional bile soap (e.g.B. Bile soap from Dr. Beckmann). Do not overload your machine: Ten shirts per wash cycle is the maximum! In addition, you should set the water-rich easy-care program and not wash heavy items such as jeans or jackets. And about colors: Wash dark with dark, light with light. Be careful with wool and silk shirts, they should only be washed by hand in lukewarm water.

Spinning strains shirts – especially collar and cuffs. So make it short, at a maximum of 900 revolutions per minute. If you want to play it safe, you can protect your shirt by putting it in a pillowcase.

Trock you should either dry the shirts in the dryer until they are only damp enough to be ironed, or hang them wet on plastic hangers. In this case, however, it is recommended to smooth out the torso as well as the sleeves and make sure that all seams are pulled straight. Notice: If you close all the buttons before hanging, you won’t have trouble with kinked plackets and collars later when ironing (especially with button-down shirts).

Ironing you can iron your shirts as long as they are damp. If they are already dry, you need to dampen them again with a spray bottle. Then iron the collar from the tips inwards to avoid visible folds in the fabric. Next are the sleeves and cuffs. Then work your way from the front with the buttonhole over the back – the back pleat must be evenly ironed in – to the other side. Breast pockets are always ironed from the seams inwards. The ironing instructions were too short and fast for you?

Ironing shirts correctly

Basically, it is recommended to hang the freshly washed shirt on a hanger. This way it is pre-smoothed and can be ironed more easily in a half-damp state. Finally, the question of the sleeves: should they be ironed round or should they be ironed with an edge? This is a matter of taste. If you prefer the former, a sleeve board (e.g.B. sleeve board from SimplySmooth) makes the work easier.

  1. First the collar: Iron the bottom half, then the top half, both sides, starting from the tips and working inward
  2. Smooth the sleeves, start in the middle and iron from the inside out, finally the edges
  3. Half of shirt on the board, smooth and iron from the bottom to the collar – but never over the buttons!
  4. First iron one half of the back, then the other half. Finally, flatten the transition between the halves
  5. Hang your shirt on a hanger and close the top buttons. Then let it steam out for 1 hour

Keep your shirts hanging, as this will prevent them from wrinkling. If you are going on a trip, it is recommended to fold your shirts: To do this, close the button placket, lay the shirt on its front and fold one half back at a right angle at about the middle of the shoulder. Finally, the sleeve is folded downwards. Do the same with the other side, so that you have a rectangle. Finally, fold the hem over the cuffs and fold the body of the shirt in half. If you want your shirt to be smoother when you travel, you can use a steamer (e.g.B. Steamer from WiredLux), which smooths your garment with the help of steam.

How to: Sew on shirt button

When a button comes off your shirt, it’s annoying – with this guide to sewing a button back on – it’s only half as bad

If you want to give the shirt new support, you need to know what you’re doing. Here’s how to stitch correctly:

  1. Pass the twine through the eye of the needle, take a double and knot the two ends together. Push the needle through the fabric and the buttonhole from behind and pierce the adjacent buttonhole.
  2. Put a match under the button. Pass the needle through a free buttonhole to the front and then back again through the remaining hole. Pull the thread all the way through each time.
  3. Repeat the last steps two or three times, remove the match, and wrap the thread around the strand between the fabric and the button (called a stick) several times.
  4. Insert the needle through the small stick, then pass it through the loop created. Knot the thread and cut it close to the stick.

Which collar stiffener in which shirt?

It’s a problem we all know: After washing, the search for the right collar stiffeners is on. How can I tell which collar stays go in which shirt? You’re not alone with the problem of finding the right collar stays for the right shirt after washing – and as we all know, a problem shared is a problem halved. Unfortunately, very few companies have the shirt brand printed on the chopsticks, and most of them are not compatible with every shirt. The only solution is to write the label or an abbreviation on the back of the sticks. But be sure to use a waterproof pen, so that the inscription does not rub off onto the shirt!

From cotton to silk: the right shirt fabric

Choosing a good shirt starts with the right fabric. Shirt fabric in general: you should never buy a shirt without taking it out of the sleeve. Does the fabric feel good? If you are not sure, try different price ranges. Bet the shirt for 100 euros has more hand-feel quality than the one for 30 euros? If your budget allows it, you should buy only full-twist quality. It irons better, doesn’t wrinkle as quickly, and the woven designs come out more brilliantly.

Tip: Be careful if the shirt fits perfectly when you try it on. The fabric will shrink during washing, so the sleeves should be one to one and a half centimeters too long and the collar a tad too wide.

As a general rule, cotton poplin should dominate on business occasions. Its structure is firm, so it creases less than linen or silk. In addition, there is also the largest selection. Alternatives are blends (at least 60 percent cotton), which can withstand travel and meetings without damage. Or soft cotton fabrics like oxfords, whose collars don’t seem so stiff. Summery linen and silk shirts are more suitable for casual wear next summer because of their airy make. Here’s where you can find hip suits to match your shirt.

  1. Chambray: A sturdy, single weave yarn that has a slight sheen – the summery, lightweight version of denim.
  2. Linen: Is breathable, virtually lint-free and bacteria repellent – ideal for allergy sufferers.
  3. Flannel: Has a soft, roughened surface, warms very well, gives a pithy look – perfect for casual shirts with check patterns.
  4. Oxford: Soft and very robust thanks to strong yarns – top for sporty button-downs.
  5. Silk: While it is tremendously high-maintenance, it is also comfortable to wear – cools in summer and warms in cold weather.
  6. Faconné: A fabric with a fine pattern – well suited for elegant evening shirts.
  7. Fil à Fil: Consists of light and dark yarn – dotted goes well with solid colored pieces.
  8. Twill: Robust woven fabric with a diagonal structure – ideal for cooler weather.

Take your time when buying shirts and try out different brands. Not every slim or regular fit has the same fit. The fit can be very different depending on the label.

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